![]() ![]() Finally, an ultrasonic bath in DI water, IPA rinse, dry, perhaps keeping ~50☌ for a good few hours if you can't pump on it.A longer soak in DI water (days), again IPA rinse, dry for even longer (even in a vacuum chamber if you can, pumping down slowly).Cleaning the contacts with gentle abrasives (see other answers) - you might even want to do that before the first test depending on how they look after a bulk clean.not recognised as storage even by data recovery tools) I'd try (in this order): If an initial read after a DI water then isopropanol rinse and thorough drying doesn't give anything at all (e.g. It's hard to envisage a mechanism that could damage some of the storage and not other areas, unless it was being written to when it got wet. To be honest I suspect you'll either be able to read everything, or nothing (or the read might start successfully then the card die but this seems less likely). However to be on the safe side, a tool that's designed to copy data from damaged drives (such as ddrescue, described in more detail in other answers) would be a good place to start PhotoRec can be used on the copy. If the file system is intact a simple copy may work. ![]() I've successfully used PhotoRec (cross-platform, open-source) to recover all sorts of files from a corrupted SD card. There are various read-only tools, that will get quite a lot back even if the file system is badly damaged. You definitely want to grab a clean copy as quickly as you can once you plug it in. Using an external reader will offer essentially complete protection for the computer against electrical faults. Click for full sizeīut you do want to be sure it's completely dry before trying to read - warm air, displacement with isopropanol, dessicant etc.Ĭompared to the data, an external USB card reader is cheap and easy to replace - so don't worry about damaging that, which is anyway unlikely. The inset shows the diffraction pattern of a 630nm diode laser from the structures we can see, after removing all but one fragment of the Si. The structure of the silicon inside, viewed under a microscope the total field of view is 1-2mm. The plastic formed over the bond wires out to the connectors is probably good against short term immersion, but I wouldn't trust it long term when there might be mechanical action too (though inside a data-logger it should be fairly well protected. The colourful shiny bits are the actual silicon on which the data is stored (the patterns of the transistors act as a diffraction grating hence the colours). In the interests of science curiosity I sacrificed a micro-SD card: While micro-SD cards are encapsulated, I wouldn't trust them to be sealed so I'd assume there's salt-water inside - and you can't open them to dry them. The alcohol won't do anything to remove salt deposits, and salt is hygroscopic, pulling enough water out of humid air to form a conductive film. ![]() I would start with distilled or dionised water, before high purity isopropanol. ![]()
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